Charisma offers PVC conduit fittings according to the standards of ANSI, BS, and customer requirement. Here is installation guide for reference when you order PVC conduit fittings from Charisma or other suppliers:
Cutting of PVC conduit
No special tools are required to cut charisma Pipe & Fittings Rigid PVC Conduit. It can easily be cut with a hacksaw, a fine-toothed handsaw or PVC conduit cutters. For conduit with more than a 2-inch diameter, use a miter box or saw guide to ensure a square cut. Deburr the end using a knife or file. Charisma also offers OEM production service.
Bending of PVC conduit：
It may be necessary to create bends in the field by heating and deforming rigid conduit. To accomplish this, the following guidelines should be followed:
• For heating the rigid conduit, use a heat gun or some other flameless heat source. Do not use an open flame to heat the conduit. The rigid conduit must be heated to ap-proximately
260˚F in order to bend without kinking.
• Heat a length of conduit equal to approximately 10 times the rigid conduit nominal diameter.
• Once the rigid conduit has been adequately heated, bend it to the required angle plus 3 extra degrees. The additional angle will accommodate the “spring back” which will occur during cooling.
• After bending of the conduit is completed, immediately cool the bend using water or cold air.
• According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), the minimum bending radius for rigid conduit is as shown in the table below.
PROCEDURE FOR SOLVENT WELDING JOINTS:
• Use solvent cement and primer prior to expiration date marked on container.
• Above 32°F ambient temperature, joints may be as-sembled without the use of primer, provided adequate penetration and softening of the pipe/fitting surface can be achieved with
solvent cement alone.
- Assemble materials for the job, including correct solvent cement, primer and correctly sized applicator.
2.Cut pipe as square as possible using a hand saw and miter box or mechanical saw. Do not use a diagonal cut, as it reduces the bonding area in the joint.
3.If plastic tubing cutters are used, care must be taken to remove any raised bead at the end of the pipe, caused by cutting. A file or reamer may be used to remove the bead.
4.Use a knife, file or reamer to remove burrs from the inside and outside of the pipe end, as these will hinder the integrity of the joint. All sharp edges should be removed from the inside and outside edges of the pipe to prevent the pipe from pushing the solvent cement into the fitting socket, thereby causing a weak spot to form. The pipe end should be chamfered, as shown below.
- All dirt, grease and moisture should be removed from the pipe and socket by thoroughly wiping with a clean, dry cloth.
- Dry fit pipe and fitting joints prior to cementing. For proper interference fit, the pipe should go easily into the socket approximately 1/3 to 2/3 of the socket depth. If this is not the case, other pipe or fittings should be used.
- The applicator should be sized according to the size of pipe and fittings being joined. The brush width of the applicator should be equal to approximately ½ of the pipe diameter.
- Primer is used to penetrate and soften the surfaces so that they will fuse together under a wide variety of conditions. The penetration or softening can be checked by dragging the edge of a knife or sharp object over the coated sur-face. If a few thousandths of an inch of the primed surface can be scratched or scraped away, proper penetration has occurred. Varying weather conditions affect priming and cementing action and may require more time or repeated applications to either or both surfaces.
- If using primer, use the correct applicator size and aggressively work the primer into the socket, keeping the surface and applicator wet until the surface has softened, redipping the applicator as required. When the surface is primed, remove any puddles of primer from the socket.
- Aggressively work the primer on to the end of the pipe, to a point ½” beyond the depth of the socket.
- Perform a second application of primer in the socket.
- While the surfaces are still wet, the appropriate solvent cement should be applied.
- Using the correct applicator size, aggressively work a full, even layer of cement onto the pipe end to a point equal to the depth of the socket. Do not brush out to a thin paint type layer, as this will dry within a few seconds.
- Aggressively work a medium layer of cement into the fitting socket; avoid puddling cement in the socket. On the pipe end, do not coat beyond the socket depth or allow ce-ment to run
down into the pipe beyond the socket. - Apply a second full, even layer of cement on the pipe.
- Immediately, while the cement is still wet, assemble the joint. Use enough force to ensure that the pipe is fully inserted into the socket. Twist the pipe a ¼ turn as it is be-ing inserted.
- Hold the joint together for approximately 30 seconds to avoid push out.
- After assembly, inspect the joint to ensure that there is a ring or bead of cement completely around the juncture of the pipe and socket. If there are voids in this ring, sufficient cement
was not applied and the joint may be defective. - Remove the excess cement from the pipe and socket (including the ring or bead) using a cloth. Avoid disturbing or moving the joint.
- Handle newly cemented joints with care until initial set has taken place. Follow set and cure times before handling or testing the system.
- Contact us to get reasonable price and good service. If you are a distributor, we can cooperation with you and provide you all types of products for your sales. If you are a manufacturer, we can cooperate with you and do OEM production for you to enhance competitiveness.